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N Ellingworth View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Building a guitar
    Posted: February 22 2008 at 04:29
In the 'How much do you practice?' thread I mentioned I was building myself a guitar, and was subsequently asked to elaborate on it a bit rather than derail that thread any further I've started a new one. Wink

So here's the specification of the guitar I'm building

Body: I believe it's Alder but I could be wrong, painted clear blue on the top and solid blue on the sides and back, has a universal rout so in theory I can fit any pickups I want.

Neck: clear gloss Maple/Rosewood strat style neck, 22 frets, C profile.

Pickups: 3 Fender Tex Mex single cloils.

Bridge: chrome Wilkinson VS100 pivot trem

Tuners/Machine Heads: Gotoh 6 inline sealed, chrome

Pickguard/Backplate: white

Basically it's a fairly standard strat clone, but since I've not got any guitar with single coil pickups it's going to fill a hole in my collection quite nicely and since the parts I'm using are high quality it should also play just as well as an Fender provided I build it well.

Here a pic of what I've currently got for those who are interested:


This photo really doesn't show the parts at their best, the rosewood fingerboard looks a lot better in real life than in this picture.

I'll update this thread once I get the other parts or get any work done but that's not going to be until late next month.
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SpaceMonkey View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2008 at 04:33
Looks finished enough.LOL
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SpaceMonkey View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2008 at 04:36

Have you always played strats?

 
 
Woo, 100 posts.


Edited by SpaceMonkey - February 22 2008 at 04:36
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N Ellingworth View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2008 at 04:36
Originally posted by SpaceMonkey SpaceMonkey wrote:

Looks finished enough.LOL


That neck doesn't even fit in the neck pocket at the moment I need to get the sand paper out and increase the width of the pocket by about 0.5mm, still that means I can get a really tight fit which will make the neck nice and secure. Wink

There's also the small problem of the lack of electronics Tongue

Originally posted by SpaceMonkey SpaceMonkey wrote:

Have you always played strats?

 
 
Woo, 100 posts.


Never owned a strat before, my guitars have always been humbucker equipped Gibson style guitars (except my Steinberger of course)




Edited by N Ellingworth - February 22 2008 at 04:40
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SpaceMonkey View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2008 at 04:42
Hopefully it works out for you in the end. I was always worried that if I took the neck off I wouldn't be able to get it "perfectly" aligned again. That was back with my other six strings though.
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N Ellingworth View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2008 at 04:48
I've mucked around with taking guitars apart since I first started playing, I once reduced my old Burn Marquee (one of the few all single coil guitars I've ever played) to it's component parts just so I could give it a decent clean. I've also had to fit new necks to bodies in the past so I've got enough experience there I hope.

The two things that are worrying me are getting the placement of the bridge right and cutting the nut slot in the neck. I'm tempted to have a luthier do those jobs for me but I'd rather do them myself.
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SpaceMonkey View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2008 at 04:54

How do you plan on tackling the whole nut issue? If you are confident enough in your abilities go for it man. It would be great having luthier skills. The problem is I'm lazy. So I'll just go the extra penny and go for some signature models instead.



Edited by SpaceMonkey - February 22 2008 at 04:58
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N Ellingworth View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2008 at 05:06
I've got several small files hanging around so I'm going to cut the slot with them, thankfully the neck has a small slot where the nut is supposed to go so all I have to do is widen it.
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Dean View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2008 at 07:28
It's looking good Nick! Did you cut and fit your own frets or buy a pre-fitted fingerboard?  I found that the singular most difficult thing to do - basically you have 22 chances to get it wrong and ruin the whole thing.
 
Back in the 60s when I first told my Dad I wanted to play guitar he made me a half-size acoustic, but as he could only scrounge 4 machine heads he made it a 4 string, which as a six-year old wanting to be John Lennon, I found difficult to match up to the chord-charts in Bert Weedon's Play In A Day, so (much to his disappointment) it remained unplayed.
 
Many years ago I built a semi-acoustic using the cheapest parts available, hand-made pickups and wood from old bits of furniture à la Brian May. Being without proper plans, it was based upon measurements taken from an old Encore guitar (the only one I dared take to pieces Wink) needless to say it played as badly as the Encore, but with a marginally warmer sound. OuchLOL
 
Knowing that I would never be able to build a "real" guitar that I would be happy with, my next project (should I ever get around to starting it) is to make an electric Appalachian dulcimer - sadly I cannot find the CAD designs I have been working on, but basically it is a headless solid body design using Steinberger machine heads. But what I really want to build is an electric 'cello...
 
What?
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N Ellingworth View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2008 at 08:35
I bought the neck complete (bar nut and tuners), there's no way I'm going to attempt to fret the neck myself as I know how difficult it can be.

If this project goes well I think I'm definitely going to be building more guitars and I will be modifying all my current ones too as I've got a few things I want to change on all of them particularly my Steinberger which really should have active pickups in my opinion but is stuck with passive ones.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2008 at 14:36
I wish I had your patience..I tried rebuilding a BC Rich Warlock I had lying around....I wound up smashing it against a wall LOL I can laugh now..but when it happened, It was not so easy
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2008 at 20:55
Just wondering, what fretwire are you going to use and what fretboard radius will you have?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2008 at 21:36
Originally posted by N Ellingworth N Ellingworth wrote:

I bought the neck complete (bar nut and tuners), there's no way I'm going to attempt to fret the neck myself as I know how difficult it can be.

If this project goes well I think I'm definitely going to be building more guitars and I will be modifying all my current ones too as I've got a few things I want to change on all of them particularly my Steinberger which really should have active pickups in my opinion but is stuck with passive ones.
One mod I've always fancied having a crack at is an infinite sustainer pick-up... like an ebow but across all six strings ... the principle is easy enough ... a small battery powered amp feeds the pickup signal back to some form of excitation coil to vibrate the strings (another pick-up perhaps... but haven't done the maths yet, I think a standard pickup may have too many turns on the coil so may have to be re-wound).
What?
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Trademark View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2008 at 23:28

The body in your pic is not alder, it is ash.

"That neck doesn't even fit in the neck pocket at the moment I need to get the sand paper out and increase the width of the pocket by about 0.5mm, still that means I can get a really tight fit which will make the neck nice and secure."

Don't use sandpaper for this job. You need a flat file. Sandpaper will not allow you to keep the walls of the neck pocket perpendicular to the face of the body. If the neck to body joint is not fitted well you'll lose a substantial amount of sustain and your neck will be more susceptible to string tension making more frequent set-up adjustments necessary. A flat file about 1/2" wide is the best tool for the job.

Also when filing the pocket to fit the neck NEVER EVER pull the file (or the sandpaper if you choose to ignore my advice) upward. The reason the neck won't fit is that the body finish has formed a small "lip" around the opening. The same thing happens around all the body routs when the finish is sprayed on. If you pull upward when removing this "finish lip" you can chip the finish. Always file either downward from the top to the bottom of the pocket or lengthwise from the heel end to the back of the neck pocket cavity.

"I've got several small files hanging around so I'm going to cut the slot with them, thankfully the neck has a small slot where the nut is supposed to go so all I have to do is widen it."


STOP STOP STOP STOP!!!!!!

On a factory neck like that there is NO WAY you should need to widen the nut slot (your pic isn't clear enough to be sure, but it looks to me like the slot is there and properly cut to size already). Since you're using the Wilky trem you don't need (and should not use) a locking nut. The Wilkinson is designed for use with a standard nut and tuners.

Your nut slot will have been cut to Fender spec of .125" (1/8") at the factory. If your nut blank is wider than the slot you should thin the nut blank to fit the slot in the neck. Keep in mind that widening the slot may well change the overall length of your strings (from contact point on the bridge to contact point on the nut it should be 25.5" for standard Fender scale) and you REALLY don't want that to happen.

The string contact point on the nut should be right at the edge of the nut where it leaves the fretboard. The string slots should slope gently down and away from that point so that the string can only have one true contact point. Flat bottomed slots are one of the beginner's most common mistakes and they make proper intonation impossible. When played open, the string makes contact at the edge of the nut nearest the tuners and when fretted it is pulled down at the fretboard edge. The difference in string length then is 1/8" from edge to edge across the nut.  If you alter the scale length even by even a mm you'll never get the intonation right.

Stew-mac has some pre-slotted (starter slots) nut blanks in graphite and a synthetic material called Tusq that should literally drop right into the factory slot. Also, don't glue your nut in the slot (another common beginner error).  if you make a mistake filing the slots you can't remove the bad one without damaging the fretboard.  A snug fit and string pressure are all that's needed to keep the nut in place.


Bridge Placement:
I'm assuming a scale length of standard Fender 25.5" for this neck and for the body. The neck and body do need to "agree" on this point.  Place some masking tape (preferably that blue stuff that peels off easily) on the body between the bridge rout and the back edge of the pickup opening. With the neck installed (screws and all), measure from the fretboard edge of the nut slot down the neck and onto the body 25.5" and make a mark. Do this from each edge (low E and High E string) of the nut. Connect those marks on the body and extend the line to about 3-1/2"- 4" long on your tape. Place the bridge in the cavity (like you did for the pic.) so that the string contact point on the saddles is lined up with your 25.5" mark. When you have it aligned properly mark the positions for the tremolo mounting studs. Remember, it is not the studs that need to be at 25.5", it is the string contact point of the saddles.

When you're ready to drill the holes for the stud bushings DO NOT use a hand drill. These holes must be perpendicular to the surface of the guitar so you'll need a drill press.  Even a slight angle on this hole with a Wilkinson trem will not allow the bridge to float properly.  Once again, your finish is at risk. Drill bits chew and LIFT material to make the hole. If you just plow in with the bit you will probably chip the finish around the bushing. Run the drill in reverse while applying pressure with the handle of the press.  Running the bit backwards cuts through the brittle finish without the lifting and chipping. Once you're through the finish, change the drill to forward speed and finish the hole. Be careful of the depth. Some studs don't work with really deep holes.

When putting the threaded bushings into the holes you also run the risk of finish damage. Don't pound them in.  The fit should be too snug to press in by hand and it is tempting to reach to the hammer. DON'T DO IT.  Use the drill press to add leverage and press the bushing into the hole.  I place the bushing into the hole and press by hand until it is seated. Then I heat the bushing with a soldering iron and immediately press the bushing in with the drill press head. The heat softens the finish just a bit and allows the bushing to just slide right into the hole. Now you're ready to remove the tape. The whole process should take less than an hour.


Congrats on assembling this instrument. When you're ready to take the next step and build one check out my book.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Books,_plans/Building_and_repair:_Guitar,_electric/Electric_Guitar_Construction.html

or

http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Guitar-Construction-First-Time-Builder/dp/1574241257/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1203740800&sr=8-1

It'll take you step by step through the whole process. It's not nearly as daunting as you suggest.  Just do your homework and get a good guide book like the one I shamelessly recommended above.


Edited by Trademark - February 23 2008 at 00:37
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N Ellingworth View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 23 2008 at 03:52
Thanks for the advice.

To clarify the nut slot issue, there is no nut slot on the neck what there is however is a slot the size of a fret slot where the nut slot should be.

EDIT: following your advice I've also ordered a couple of books to help me though everything.


Edited by N Ellingworth - February 23 2008 at 04:07
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 23 2008 at 03:58
Originally posted by darqDean darqDean wrote:

Many years ago I built a semi-acoustic using the cheapest parts available, hand-made pickups and wood from old bits of furniture à la Brian May. Being without proper plans, it was based upon measurements taken from an old Encore guitar (the only one I dared take to pieces Wink) needless to say it played as badly as the Encore, but with a marginally warmer sound. OuchLOL
 


still the best way to get to know something Big%20smile


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N Ellingworth View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 25 2008 at 06:10
Well I've got a small update,

I've figured out how where the nut will have to be installed and the fret sized slot simply marks where the edge of the nut should be. I don't know why the neck I've bought doesn't come with a precut nut slot but it's not a big problem.

The first of the 2 book I've ordered has arrived, hopefully the second will get here in the next couple of days as I intend to read both books from cover to cover before I even consider picking up any tools.
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Trademark View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 25 2008 at 08:05
I've never seen one done like that before, but using that slot as the edge guide does at least make some sense.  That would mean that when you widen the slot you'll do all your cutting in the direction of the headstock and not toward the first fret. Should work out fine. 

Just out of curiosity, what books did you order?  I was Stewart-MacDonald's Tech Support guy for five years so I'm pretty familiar with all the books out there (including the one I wrote of course) and I'll be glad to help in any way I can.


Edited by Trademark - February 25 2008 at 08:09
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N Ellingworth View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 25 2008 at 08:17
Your one and Make Your Own Guitar by Melvyn Hiscock.

The book you wrote was the one that arrived today it's already been very useful, as it helped me figure out how to find where the nut slot should be cut.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 25 2008 at 18:42
Out of curiosity, Trademark, how much would I have to differ from the guitar-building instruction books if I wanted to build a six-string bass?  Would it be much more than a wider fretboard and wider nut slots?  

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