Joined: June 25 2013
Location: Portugal
Status: Offline
Points: 10232
Posted: December 17 2014 at 16:53
Polymorphia wrote:
Most music stores will do that too if you take it there, but they tend to be less trustworthy. Still, I have my guitar and mandolin at a local music store with some set-up stuff being done.
Most music stores here take the guitars to the luthier, so the luthier probably costs less. I would really like to get a mandolin someday, and learn to play it of course. I have a brazilian cavaquinho but it's not very fun to play
Joined: June 25 2013
Location: Portugal
Status: Offline
Points: 10232
Posted: December 17 2014 at 16:44
Gerinski wrote:
Meltdowner wrote:
^ Thanks for the advice! I'll take it to a luthier, from what I was
told, there's a really good one near. I hope it doesn't cost as much as
the guitar
By
the way, don't give up on the GT-10, it takes patience but it's worth
it. There are some official tutorials that teach you the basics in no
time
Thanks! a good guitar set up by a good luthier should not cost you too much I hope. Make sure that the strings height and the tremolo-bridge springs tension are up to your taste, this will define how your guitar will feel afterwards.
This was one of my main headaches, they have to get the sweet spot between 3 different settings, the neck thrust rod, the strings height on the bridge and the tremolo springs tension, which in a floating bridge like a Floyd Rose affect the strings height. Most importantly, make sure that you start by having the string gauge you want, because different gauges put different tension and will require different settings on the neck rod, the bridge and tremolo springs, and then everything changes.
I won't give up on my GT-10, I'm pretty sure that it's a very good device, but I need to spend time on it. It's quite different from other pedalboards I have played such as my Yamaha GW50, which is a more traditional combination of single effects pedals. The GT-10 seems to be meant to programming presets, independently of what each effect actually does.
I had to read that first paragraph many times to understand it. I don't understand much about the guitar parts and configurations, for now I wouldn't mind a guitar that plays in tune and that I can feel what I'm playing: the way it is now I can't play in drop D and I can barely play the tapping intro of Giant Hogweed
I wish my GT-8 had USB so I could give you my Floyd patches: I already spent some time with those and they are still not perfect.... and they will never be
Joined: November 06 2012
Location: here
Status: Offline
Points: 8856
Posted: December 17 2014 at 15:55
Most music stores will do that too if you take it there, but they tend to be less trustworthy. Still, I have my guitar and mandolin at a local music store with some set-up stuff being done.
Joined: February 10 2010
Location: Barcelona Spain
Status: Offline
Points: 5154
Posted: December 17 2014 at 15:52
Meltdowner wrote:
^ Thanks for the advice! I'll take it to a luthier, from what I was
told, there's a really good one near. I hope it doesn't cost as much as
the guitar
By
the way, don't give up on the GT-10, it takes patience but it's worth
it. There are some official tutorials that teach you the basics in no
time
Thanks! a good guitar set up by a good luthier should not cost you too much I hope. Make sure that the strings height and the tremolo-bridge springs tension are up to your taste, this will define how your guitar will feel afterwards.
This was one of my main headaches, they have to get the sweet spot between 3 different settings, the neck thrust rod, the strings height on the bridge and the tremolo springs tension, which in a floating bridge like a Floyd Rose affect the strings height. Most importantly, make sure that you start by having the string gauge you want, because different gauges put different tension and will require different settings on the neck rod, the bridge and tremolo springs, and then everything changes.
I won't give up on my GT-10, I'm pretty sure that it's a very good device, but I need to spend time on it. It's quite different from other pedalboards I have played such as my Yamaha GW50, which is a more traditional combination of single effects pedals. The GT-10 seems to be meant to programming presets, independently of what each effect actually does.
Joined: February 10 2010
Location: Barcelona Spain
Status: Offline
Points: 5154
Posted: December 17 2014 at 12:38
Meltdowner wrote:
I have an Ibanez S370 like this one: Got it used 7 years ago. It's nothing special, but it's a very versatile guitar. I've been having some trouble to tune it lately, the strings seem to touch in the 4th fret, and I don't know what do
Fret buzz can be a pain in the ass indeed. In my experience, only a good luthier will fix it right, especially on a guitar with tremolo bridge as yours (even more if it's a 'body-through' bridge, I don't know if that's the case). I have had many tries by myself and other people who thought they would fix it, adjusting the neck thrust rod, the strings bridge height etc, only to poor results (it's easy to avoid fret buzz by lifting the strings up but that's not what you want if you want to play light and nicely). Take it to some good luthier, it will cost some money but it's gonna be worth it.
Joined: February 10 2010
Location: Barcelona Spain
Status: Offline
Points: 5154
Posted: December 17 2014 at 12:01
I'm a bit ashamed because I have some decent gear and it's years that I don't really play, but I plan to start playing again (I do, really! ).
* Aria Pro II Cardinal Series CS-350 Electric Guitar (the red one, Japan made): this was my first decent guitar (after some crappy ones I dare not to mention) and I still play it sometimes for the cleaner, more jazzy stuff. I replaced the neck pickup by a Seymour Duncan and I installed a Floyd Rose tremolo bridge and it's a pretty nice guitar.
* Carvin DC135T Electric Guitar (the blue one, US made): this is the one I play the most, it's a bit following the Ibanez metal-oriented guitars style, great for the heavier stuff and soloing. 1-piece construction, 24 frets neck, Floyd Rose tremolo bridge, humbucker in the bridge and single coils in middle and neck...
* Fender Gemini II acoustic guitar (made in Korea): this was a present and I have never been fond of its sound or playing feel, I would have never bought it myself. Perhaps one day I will be able to afford a Gibson J-200 .
* Peavey Fury bass (US made): following the Fender Precision style, it's quite OK, I'm not really a bass player anyway so for my needs it's good enough. It needs new strings urgently though.
* Yamaha GW50 multi-FX pedalboard: works as single effects pedals or as a multi-FX combinations with 128 factory presets and 128 user presets, more than enough for an amateur like myself, I'm fine with it.
* Boss GT-10 multi-FX pedalboard: I bought this one recently out of a 'buying rush' and I still don't know what to say, it's extremely powerful but you need to spend a lot of time to master it (which I have not done yet). I don't think it's practical as a single effects pedalboard because it does not have independent knobs for each effect's parameters, everything needs to be programmed one by one by menus and a few buttons and a selection wheel, it seems more meant to program your own multi-fx presets and then play with those, and I'm still far from understanding all what it takes. Of course it has many great factory presets too but I'm still a bit lost with it.
* Yamaha PSR2100 Keyboard: this was also a present, I would have never bought it myself. The built-in sounds are not very exciting for rock playing, it's more the kind of keyboard for programming all the rhythms and backing tracks and then play on top the melody to entertain the old guests at an hotel lounge bar in the evening, but OK, with my Vintage Keys sound module I can use it as controller, and for more orchestral sounds such as brass, winds etc it's OK.
* E-Mu Vintage Keys sound module: I just bought this one 2nd hand and I still need to learn about it, but it has many vintage sounds, Moogs, Mellotron, ARPs, Oberheims, Rhodes, Wurly's, CP70 and so on, so it should be fun.
* Hughes & Kettner Attax Series Tour Reverb Amp: 100W, a nice guitar amp.
* Peavey Audition 30W Amp: just for home practicing, I nearly never use it having the H&K, I use it mainly for the keyboard
I have also a bass amp sitting at some friend's place for a few years, don't even remember the model, it was not from any famous brand but it was pretty good and powerful. I am also co-owner of a Roland U-20 keyboard which sits at a friend's place for years (the other co-owner).
In any case, I can't complain about gear, what I need now is starting to play again!
Joined: March 23 2013
Location: Minnesota
Status: Offline
Points: 2028
Posted: December 16 2014 at 22:06
Here's a project I just finished. This was my first bass, bought in
1983 for about $120.00. Lotus, made in Korea. Cheap and crappy. It
weighed about 12 lbs. but it felt like 100. So I carved holes in it,
filed and chiseled it, and gave it a paint job. I haven't re-weighed it
yet, but it's a lot easier to carry now.
Joined: June 25 2013
Location: Portugal
Status: Offline
Points: 10232
Posted: December 05 2014 at 18:44
I have an Ibanez S370 like this one: Got it used 7 years ago. It's nothing special, but it's a very versatile guitar. I've been having some trouble to tune it lately, the strings seem to touch in the 4th fret, and I don't know what do
I have a small Kustom solid state amp and I was thinking about getting a better one too, I'll see your suggestions
For effects I bought a Roland GT-8 five years ago. It took me some time to learn how to work with it but now I can do any sound I want to.
Joined: January 11 2012
Location: Columbus&NYC
Status: Offline
Points: 3167
Posted: December 05 2014 at 17:12
Ozark Soundscape wrote:
Polymorphia wrote:
Depends on how much you're willing to spend. Fender's usually a good choice both in terms of tone and budget.
500$ or less would be nice
500 for a fender Deville is solid. I paid less than that for mine because I have a friend that deals amps but you could get some good sh*t for 500. Always go for tubes. Make sure they can screech if you want. ;)
Joined: December 05 2014
Location: New York City
Status: Offline
Points: 2
Posted: December 05 2014 at 16:28
They were truly great in the late '60s - early '70s, then Yorkville and Pete Traynor had a parting of the ways (circa '76? ... around then anyways) and they just about dried up. But recently they began to put out reasonably priced amps based on the old Pete Traynor designs. They're hard to find, only one NYC authorized guy. I think they are trying to earn their way back into the mainstream, hence the very reasonable prices for what one gets. In any case, I'm impressed.
For about 20 years I used a Marshall JCM 601 combo with an additional 1x12" extension cab. It had a nice "clean channel" sound, not so great high gain channel (I rarely used it) and a very good line out, and it was a reasonably portable club gig setup.
It was also way too loud for what I was doing, so eventually I sold it to a kid in a neo- hard rock band in Brooklyn. I used a Bogner Rebel 20 and still have it. Great for recording, it has both a 6V6 and an EL-84 power stage and you can mix the two. It also has a variable output knob that really works as advertised. But it just wasn't loud enough for the new gig with the new guys. I took my time and found the Traynor and it was just right for club gigs, I can schlep it around with a "magna-cart" mini, folding hand cart and I'm really happy with it.
Joined: November 06 2012
Location: here
Status: Offline
Points: 8856
Posted: December 05 2014 at 13:17
^I had a friend who owned a Traynor. I think it was one of their lower grade ones so the sound wasn't amazing, but rugged is exactly how I would describe it.
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The Definitive Gear Thread
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Polymorphia wrote:
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