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oliverstoned View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 12 2006 at 17:03


The burner's converter musicality is important.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 12 2006 at 13:23
Originally posted by captainbeyond captainbeyond wrote:

Sean Trane,
 
Thanks for the good word. Ah, I think what you recommend might be more my speed, at this point. DO you know the model number? Also, what will be the major shortcomings of it not being the hi-fi format?
 
Thanks Again 
 
My friend's stereo burner is a phillips entry model, I'll phone them up to see what the model number it is
 
 
It is exactly the same inside machine  as the more expensive ones except for the options, and I'm pretty sure they only fit it in a smaller . So in the case of this small stereo burner, my educated guess is that only the size of the element makes the difference, in case the users have MiDi stereo and want to have the burner MiDi in a rack.
 
MiDi is for mid-dimension instead odf mini-stereo chain and micro-stereo chains
 
My reasonning on this is that they would simply never design a machine fom scratch to put it only on a basic model.>>>just not worth it
 
Same with Cd players >>> the mechanics and the lazer is usually the same for many different brands ( Phillips - and maybe Sony - have it manufactured for all of the other brands since they own the patent) >>> same thing with burners . so all of the other brands have the same two or three model that exist >>> they just buy them and pay the inventors the rights.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 11 2006 at 10:30

GREAT TOPIC

As a large portion of my music collection is vinyl I have letely been thinking of burning some to CD but have lacked the time (and energy) to figure out the best way to do it. I have printed this thread and look forward to trying to burn some music to CD.
 
It hasn't been a problem to date because my car is old and has a cassette deck in it. I have a very nice cassette recorder hooked to my stereo and use that to make tapes for driving. I am in the market for a new car and getting a tape deck in it is not an option, I will have to go to CD. I will not carry the expense to buy CD's of my favourite music, not when I have perfectly good vinyl LP's.
 
Thanks captain for asking the question.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 11 2006 at 10:03
Sean Trane,
 
Thanks for the good word. Ah, I think what you recommend might be more my speed, at this point. DO you know the model number? Also, what will be the major shortcomings of it not being the hi-fi format?
 
Thanks Again 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 11 2006 at 04:08
Captain Beyond,
 
There is an entry stand alone stereo CD burner from Phillips going for some 250.00 €, but it is not the hi-fi format (more like the midi format - around 35 cm-wide) , and I have two friends who have this model and think it is perfect. it has optical link capacity, digtal dual input and analog dual input.
 
 
If you value your stereo system (you seem to have the same weak link of the stereo chain as I do >>> an average turtable, but the rest sound fine), this Stand alone Phillips unit is hardly a huge investment and will allow you to copy Cds, CD-rs CD-RW copy vinyls or even cassettes or live recordings (I think) directly.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 16:59
Indeed - those are the two options.

An extension of the computer option might be to buy a small profile PC - doesn't have to be high spec, so a cheap second-hand one would do - and plumb it into the HiFi.

Of course, it would need a reasonable soundcard and a good CD burner - but for the price, you might as well get a standalone unit, unless pop-removal was a high priority for you.


I must say that I've never had issues with CD-rs skipping - even when burned at 52x - maybe that's because I always get the best quality CDs I can

The speed of burning, unlike tape, has no effect whatsoever on the sound quality - you are simply putting digital data onto a disc, not speeding up (and hence compressing) an analogue audio stream.
    

After a little thought it occurred to me that when burning faster, it's possible that the laser gets enthusiastic and burns too much (or possibly too little) of the material it's supposed to burn (I forget what it is), in creating each pit (or whatever the resulting holes are called) and so could make life difficult for some consumer CD players to read - because if the reader can't do the error correction properly, then it will simply skip over it until it can find data that it can read.
    

Edited by Certif1ed - August 10 2006 at 17:33
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 13:23
as he can't connect the computer to the stereo, I think he still needs a standalone recorder?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 11:50


Considering your system -and if you don't plane to upgrade-, you can go for a computer-recording solution, follow Mike and others advices.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 11:27
At risk of dragging the conversation down several notches, I feel a bit glazed-over. Please allow me to start over:
 
1) I have a simple stereo system (Onkyo components, Advent speakers, and an old Phillips turntable) in one room.
 
2) I have a computer and CD burner in another, non-adjacent room so the computer and stereo cannot be connected.
 
3) Is there a reliable and respectable quality way to record from the stereo system onto CD-r? Are there good stand-alone burners that could be connected to the stereo? Even if so, do I need special cables to make that connection, or are the nice cables merely for playback?
 
4) Am I missing some very obvious, important principles in this process?
 
Many thanks again, everyone.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 10:53
1. I do know audiophile systems ... I owned a Musical Fidelity amp + Magnat cabinets + expensive cables for about 5 years, then unfortunately the amp broke. So I know how a decent amp sounds (I also listened to better systems a lot, and I used to run a small home studio with professional equipment (Soundcraft mixer, Tannoy monitors, Alesis ADAT multitrack recorder etc.) for a couple of years back in the 90s).

2. I don't have any vinyls. I had a nice collection as a kid, but one day a water pipe leaked and destroyed the whole collection from one day to the other. I am planning though to get a vinyl player and then I'll buy some used vinyls, just for nostalgia.Big smile
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 10:31
Originally posted by MikeEnRegalia MikeEnRegalia wrote:


No, you're quite right. I'm currently listening to music exclusively on the computer, using an Creative X-Fi soundcard and a Logitech 5.1 speaker system which sounds amazing when considering that it only cost me 80 EUR. I'm aware of its limitations, but it's not at all "lo-fi" ... compared to my Hi-Fi system (Harman Kardon HK620 + Elac cabinets) it sounds really good, and in some aspects it's even superior ... that's simply due to the amazing progress in the area of cabinet material and acoustic optimization.

Actual Hi-Fi components may sound a whole lot better, but I do believe that an optimal sound quality is not all that important. I'd rather buy more albums than upgrade my gear!

 
I agree a good Hi-fi is a heavy investment, but you should really try it!!!
 
I mean this investment is really once and will last 30 years or more. Most people wanting to change regularly is because tyhey get sick of looking at this old stuff. My Father's stereo dates from the mid-70's (except for the CD deck) and still sounds fabulous. And my Canadian Yamaha Hi-fi (bought in 77 with my student job's wage is still working fine at a friend's place and it has never gotten broken down or repaired (outside of lightbulbs and power surge fuses).
 
 
 
 
Once you tasted Hi-fi, you'll not want to come back to your previous ways.
 
How do you deal with vinyls, though? Like Cert?
 
Or you do not bother with vinyls?


Edited by Sean Trane - August 10 2006 at 10:31
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 10:10
Originally posted by Sean Trane Sean Trane wrote:

Originally posted by MikeEnRegalia MikeEnRegalia wrote:


Commercial music CDs are not burned at all - they are pressed.Geek
 
I think Mike just scored a point here, OlivierWink
 
 
 
Mike, Correct me if I'm wrong, but I have the distintctive impression you listen to your music mainly on your computer! do you ever play your cd in a Hi-Fi stereo?
 
 I mean the ones where the witdth of the components are 45 cm?
 
 
Sorry if I assume wrong....


No, you're quite right. I'm currently listening to music exclusively on the computer, using an Creative X-Fi soundcard and a Logitech 5.1 speaker system which sounds amazing when considering that it only cost me 80 EUR. I'm aware of its limitations, but it's not at all "lo-fi" ... compared to my Hi-Fi system (Harman Kardon HK620 + Elac cabinets) it sounds really good, and in some aspects it's even superior ... that's simply due to the amazing progress in the area of cabinet material and acoustic optimization.

Actual Hi-Fi components may sound a whole lot better, but I do believe that an optimal sound quality is not all that important. I'd rather buy more albums than upgrade my gear!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 09:36

I'm not that sure. Maybe. I've heard about high speed duplication.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 09:35
Originally posted by MikeEnRegalia MikeEnRegalia wrote:


Commercial music CDs are not burned at all - they are pressed.Geek
 
I think Mike just scored a point here, OlivierWink
 
 
 
Mike, Correct me if I'm wrong, but I have the distintctive impression you listen to your music mainly on your computer! do you ever play your cd in a Hi-Fi stereo?
 
 I mean the ones where the witdth of the components are 45 cm?
 
 
Sorry if I assume wrong....
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 09:35
I must admit that I have encountered problems with some my CD-Rs only in my 4 years old Sony wallkman, but other players which I have used (even in car) have played them nicely without errors. But it think that these CD-Rs are more vulnerable to fysical damage than factory manufactured.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 09:26
Originally posted by oliverstoned oliverstoned wrote:

"Just like multi-speed cassette recording , the quality was pisspoor"



Absolutely!

Even music Cds are burned at high speed in factory, unfortunatly.




Commercial music CDs are not burned at all - they are pressed.Geek
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 09:24
I used to burn CDs quite a lot until two years ago ... I used cheap CD-Rs and a cheap computer burner, burned them at the highest available speed and did not have any problem with player compatibility - not even with the cd changer in the car.

BTW: I don't think that there is *any* audio quality difference between burners and cheap/expensive CD-Rs. The only difference that I can imagine is player compatibility and durability of the burned disks ... anything else if just a big marketing scam.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 09:24
"Just like multi-speed cassette recording , the quality was pisspoor"



Absolutely!

Even music Cds are burned at high speed in factory, unfortunatly.


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 09:18
Question is to Mike and Mark:
 
Do your normal Cdr play almost anywhere and without any skipping or glitches (usually staring in the last third of the recorded album?
 
I have found that computer burned Cds screw up very often, mostly because of the multi-speed.
 
Just like multi-speed cassette recording , the quality was pisspoor
 
 
 
 
I suppose that your burning from vinyls can only be done in real time
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 10 2006 at 08:52
Originally posted by captainbeyond captainbeyond wrote:

Hey Everyone,

I'm guessing there have got to be more than a few gearheads out there in Prog Land. My questions are relatively straightforward:

1) How do you record from vinyl to CD?

Output from my HiFi to my SB Audigy Platinum using SPDif. My PC runs the free program Wavepad, with the non-free "Golden Records" add-on to remove pops and clicks.

The audio is recorded to raw *.WAV output, and I then use Wavepad to burn the CD directly - so no additional processing is done to the file except to convert it from WAV to CDA.

I use a reasonably high-quality CD-Burner, not a cheap one, and always use high-quality CD-Rs.

The sound quality is more than acceptable - although admittedly not perfect, as recording in 16-bit 44.1 khz mode always sounds muted compared to 24-bit 192khz mode - but then you can't always fit the music to a CD afterwards.


2) What set-up/equipment models do you use?

As above!

I won't use a "proper" Hi-Fi burner until they introduce a facility to remove pops and clicks, another to convert to audio formats other than straight CDA - and bring the price down in line with the PC equivalent units. I think the price of these units is disproportionately high given the "difference" in sound quality.


3) What do you think is the best "bang for your buck?"

As above! Wavepad is free, and you can pick up a soundcard with SPDif - or, at a push, RCA connectors - pretty cheaply.

Thanks ahead of time for your help.

Cheers,
AA



    

Edited by Certif1ed - August 10 2006 at 08:52
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